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Absenta, de musa a desgraciada.

La absenta es una bebida tan polémica que ha pasado de ‘musa’ de bohemios y aristocráticos, venerada en todas partes del mundo, a ‘bruja desgraciada’ prohibida y desterrada de la faz de la tierra, para finalmente ser ‘la resucitada’ de nuestros días actuales.

Inspector jefe Frederick George Abberline, caracterizado por Johnny Depp en el film “From Hell”, figura clave policial durante la investigación de los asesinatos de Jack el destripador. Era bebedor de absenta habitual.

Seguramente hayas leído muchos artículos sobre su historia y rituales, y como nosotros, te habrás encontrado algunas contradicciones.
En este artículo queremos compartir contigo una especie de criba informativa para intentar aclarar algunas dudas.

Como ya sabrás, hasta hace muy pocos años la absenta estaba terminantemente prohibida acusada de ser tóxica para el consumo humano. Suiza volvió a producirla en 2005, Estados Unidos en 2007, España en 2009 y Francia recién en el 2010; en reemplazo lo que había hasta entonces era el Pastis francés, el Herbsaint de New Orleans, y unas bebidas destiladas de alta graduación alcohólica con maceración de hierbas, aceites esenciales y colorante; algunas marcas categorizaban estas últimas como “Fuerte”, “Muy Fuerte” y “Super-Fuerte”, y por supuesto el efecto louche* no sucedía.

Lo cierto es que los productores de estos sustitutos no tenían ni idea de cómo debería saber la original, sencillamente porque no había ninguna disponible.

ORIGENES

En Egipto se consideraba al ajenjo como la ‘Madre de todas las hierbas’, y en la antigua Grecia, Hipócrates la utilizaba con flores de Díctamo para preparar su famoso Vinum Hippocraticum, prescrito como medicina para tratar el reumatismo, la ictericia y los dolores menstruales; de hecho la palabra ‘ajenjo’ viene del griego apsinthion (‘no bebible’), y da el nombre científico a esta poderosa planta medicinal: artemisia absinthium.

La artemisia absinthium es la hierba principal utilizada en la elaboración de absenta.

Durante la Edad Media no solo siguió utilizándose el vino hipocrático sino que el ajenjo se incluía en recetas de elaboración de cerveza tales como el ‘Purl’ o ‘Wormwood Ale’, y fue tras el descubrimiento de la destilación al vapor que aparecieron extractos concentrados de la hierba en cuestión; según parece fueron las hermanas Henriod (2ª mitad del s. XVIII. Couvet, Suiza) quienes elaboraron la fórmula de la absenta tal y como la conocemos hoy en día. La confusión sobre su autoría viene sencillamente porque no se les dio crédito por ser mujeres, situémonos en la época. Fue así que se atribuyó la invención al Dr. Pierre Ordinaire, un médico francés monárquico exiliado en Suiza, quién según los datos disponibles solo la comercializaba bajo el nombre de ‘Fée Verte’.

Lo que pocos saben es que en 1797, el Mayor Dubied funda la primera destilería de absenta llamada “Dubied Père et Fils”, allí mismo en Couvet, luego de comprar la receta a las hermanas Henriod. Ocho años después, traslada la destilería a Pontarlier (Francia), donde su yerno Henri-Louis Pernod se hace cargo del negocio comercializándola a gran escala y convirtiéndola en la más vendida y probablemente la de mayor calidad.

LA FÉE VERTE

Si bien la bebida fue extendida por apotecarios y médicos como medicina, fueron los soldados franceses quienes popularizaron su consumo en 1840 cuando luchaban en Argelia; mezclaban ajenjo con vino para combatir la fiebre de enfermedades infecciosas, entre ellas la disentería. A finales de s. XIX la bebida ocupaba sitio de preferencia en las estanterías de los bares y restaurantes de Estados Unidos (sobre todo New Orleans), Argentina, Suiza, Bohemia (futura República de Checoslovaquia) y sobre todo, Francia.

“The green muse” (1895). Muestra un poeta sucumbiendo a los efectos de la absenta. Pintura de Albert Maignan.

En París concretamente, los días comenzaban con una copa de absenta y acababan en l’heure vert (la hora verde) con varias dosis aperitivas antes de la cena. Utilizada sobre todo por el sector bohemio, se decía que la ‘fée verte’ (el hada verde) aparecía al beber aquella pócima regalando grandes momentos de inspiración.

“A finales del s. XIX solamente Francia se bebía 2 millones de litros anuales de absenta, y para principios del s.XX la cifra ascendía a 36 millones.”

EL CONTEXTO

Resulta que en 1863 una plaga de Daktulosphaira vitifoliae –un tipo de pulgón proveniente de Estados Unidos- se introdujo en Europa infectando las vides y causando 5 años más tarde la famosa crisis de la filoxera, provocando significativas pérdidas para el sector vitivinícola dejando a la población casi sin vino, y el poco que había se vendía a precios muy altos.

De forma paulatina la filoxera comenzó a arrasar las viñas, primero en Francia, después en toda Europa y finalmente se extendió por todo el mundo, salvo casos muy especiales como el de Chile.

Mientras tanto, el hada verde ganaba terreno, no solo entre sus leales admiradores, sino entre el común de la gente que la consumían a falta de vino. A finales del s. XIX solamente Francia se bebía 2 millones de litros anuales de absenta, y para principios del s.XX la cifra ascendía a 36 millones. En Estados Unidos, New Orleans se había convertido en su sede oficial, tenía sus propias marcas y cócteles.

Y hablando de cócteles… quién sea bartender sabrá que muchos Pick me up de la época llevaban importantes cantidades de absenta.. solo hay que recurrir a los recetarios de la época…

la bruja verde

El auge de la absenta derivó en lo que se llamó absinthism, o desorden provocado por su ingesta, caracterizado por síntomas como alucinaciones, convulsiones, ceguera y deterioro mental. Se consideró que la Tujona, un componente activo presente en varias hierbas y en la artemisia absinthium, era la causante de tal desorden; sin embargo no existen datos científicos de la época que confirmen tal relación.

Ya en el s. XX se descubrió que las dosis de este componente presente el ajenjo son insignificantes como para provocar tales efectos; de hecho, la salvia contiene más porcentaje de tujona que el ajenjo.

Lo que sí es un hecho es que se consumía sin mesura; hablamos de que la absenta de la época era en su mayoría de casi 90º de volumen alcohólico, y además, si algo se vende como churros los impuestos sobre su producción y comercialización no tardan en subir, como tampoco tardan en aparecer las versiones de baja o nula calidad, con sus consecuencias obvias.

Recordemos que desde el s.XIX había todo un movimiento por la templanza que acabó en la famosa Ley Seca norteamericana en 1919, pero ya se había implementado en partes de Canadá, en toda Rusia, Islandia, Noruega y Finlandia.

En dicho contexto y con los problemas derivados por abuso de absenta, los médicos y la Liga Nacional Contra el Alcoholismo comenzaron una campaña propagandista enfocada en alertar del peligro a sus aficionados, endemoniando al hada verde, la cual finalizó en 1915 con la prohibición de la elaboración, venta y consumo de la bebida.
La industria del vino en Francia fue una de las primeras en lanzar estas campañas en contra, aunque los viñedos se recuperaron casi del todo recién en 1930, la ‘bruja verde’ les había ganado muchísimo terreno.

Puedes encontrar en archivos históricos infinidad de carteles ilustrados con el hada verde condenada a la hoguera, la muerte sirviendo absenta y artículos en los medios de comunicación del momento alertando de los efectos en todos los idiomas…

RITUALES TRADICIONALES

Puedes estar muy tranquilo de que la absenta no te volverá loco, ni verás elefantes verdes, ni te morirás; como te hemos dicho el porcentaje de tujona está presente en trazas y es absolutamente insignificante e inofensivo, y su elaboración es uno de los procesos más controlados con estrictas normativas.
Eso sí, como toda bebida alcohólica hay que consumirla con moderación y responsabilidad, y más la absenta por su alta graduación alcohólica.

Existen diferentes rituales tradicionales para preparar y beber absenta.

Hoy en día hay muchos bares en donde te la preparan profesionales tal y como se debe hacer. Nosotros te contamos los métodos tradicionales más conocidos:

Método checo
Ingredientes
20ml de absenta checa
1 terrón de azúcar
¾ partes de agua muy fría
Utensilios
1 copa de absenta (260ml)
1 cuchara de absenta
1 mechero
1 jigger

Colocar la cuchara sobre la boca de la copa, encima colocar el terrón. Verter la medida de absenta con ayuda de un jigger sobre el terrón, inflamarlo y esperar a que se derrita. Luego verter el agua por encima y remover con la cuchara.

Método checo sin agua (por aspiración)
*Aviso: este método es muy fuerte.
Ingredientes
20ml de absenta checa
1 terrón de azúcar
Agua fría
Utensilios
1 vaso de absenta sin pie (asegúrate que la boca te quepa en la palma de la mano)
1 vaso para el agua
1 cuchara de absenta
1 mechero
1 jigger

Servir agua en el vaso y dejarla cerca. Verter la medida de la absenta en el vaso con ayuda de un jigger. Colocar la cuchara sobre la boca del vaso y encima el terrón; inflamarlo y antes de que se derrita del todo incorporarlo dentro del vaso -la absenta continuará inflamándose- con cuidado colocar la mano encima del vaso haciendo un efecto ventosa. Luego romper el efecto despegando levemente la palma y seguidamente aspirar el vaho con la boca y luego beber el líquido.
Inmediatamente beber el agua.

Método suizo
Ingredientes
20ml de absenta sueca
¾ partes de agua muy fría
Utensilios
1 copa de absenta (260ml)
1 jigger

Verter la medida de absenta con ayuda de un jigger dentro de la copa y agregar el agua hasta llenarla.

Método francés
Ingredientes
20ml de absenta checa
1 terrón de azúcar
¾ partes de agua muy fría
Utensilios
1 copa de absenta (260ml)
1 cuchara de absenta
1 mechero
1 jigger

Colocar la cuchara sobre la boca de la copa, encima colocar el terrón. Verter la medida de absenta con ayuda de un jigger sobre el terrón, inflamarlo y esperar a que se derrita. Luego verter el agua por encima y remover con la cuchara.

Esperamos que te animes a probarla y que la disfrutes si aún no lo has hecho, siempre con responsabilidad. Aquí te dejamos un link para comprarla en nuestra tienda online.

próximo puesto

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